How to Seal Your Driveway
To seal your driveway, clean the surface thoroughly, fill any cracks with crack filler, then apply two thin coats of driveway sealer with a squeegee. Block traffic for 24 to 48 hours while the sealer cures. Done every two to three years, this protects asphalt from UV damage, water penetration, and freeze-thaw cracking.
- Time
- 120 min
- Frequency
- every 2-3 years
- Difficulty
- medium
- Cost
- $40
What you'll need
- Driveway sealer
- Squeegee applicator
- Crack filler
- Stiff broom
- Garden hose
- Gloves
The steps
- 1
Clean the driveway thoroughly
Sweep the entire surface with a stiff broom to remove dirt, leaves, and loose debris. Hose it down with a garden hose, scrubbing oil stains with degreaser or dish soap and a stiff brush. The sealer will not bond to a dirty surface, so take your time here. Let the driveway dry completely before moving on.
- 2
Fill cracks with crack filler
Inspect the driveway for cracks. Fill anything wider than a quarter inch with asphalt crack filler, following the product directions. For narrow hairline cracks, the sealer itself will fill them. Overfill slightly and smooth with a putty knife or trowel.
- 3
Let the filler cure
Give the crack filler time to set before sealing over it. Most products need 4 to 8 hours, but check the label. Sealing over uncured filler traps moisture underneath and the repair will fail.
- 4
Stir the sealer well
Open the bucket of driveway sealer and stir it thoroughly from the bottom up. The heavy solids settle during storage. If you do not mix them back in, the first section you coat gets thin watery sealer and the last section gets thick sludge. Stir for at least two minutes.
- 5
Pour and spread the first coat
Pour a line of sealer across the width of the driveway at the far end, away from the garage or street exit. Use a squeegee applicator to spread it in thin, even strokes, working your way toward your exit point. Do not apply thick coats. Thick coats peel, crack, and take much longer to dry. Aim for full coverage with no puddles.
- 6
Apply the second coat after the first dries
Wait for the first coat to dry completely, usually 4 to 8 hours depending on temperature and humidity. Apply the second coat the same way, working in the same direction. Two thin coats last far longer and look better than one thick coat.
- 7
Block traffic for 24 to 48 hours
Keep all foot and vehicle traffic off the driveway for at least 24 hours, ideally 48. Place cones, sawhorses, or caution tape across the entrance. Driving on uncured sealer leaves tire marks and ruins the finish. Check the product label for exact cure times.
Why sealing your driveway matters
An unsealed asphalt driveway takes a beating from two directions: UV radiation from above and water from below. Sunlight oxidizes the binder that holds asphalt together, turning the surface brittle and gray. Water seeps into small cracks, freezes in winter, expands, and widens those cracks with every cycle. Within a few years of neglect, hairline cracks become potholes and the driveway needs full resurfacing — a job that costs $2,000 to $5,000 or more.
Sealcoat blocks both threats. It restores a flexible, waterproof layer on top of the asphalt that prevents UV breakdown and keeps water out of the substrate. A properly sealed driveway can last 25 to 30 years. An unsealed one may need major repair in 10 to 15. At $30 to $50 in materials every few years, sealing is one of the cheapest ways to protect a major surface on your property.
Asphalt vs. concrete: different products, different schedules
Standard driveway sealcoat is formulated for asphalt only. Applying it to concrete will peel, look terrible, and waste your time. If you have a concrete driveway, use an acrylic or penetrating concrete sealer instead and plan on reapplying every three to five years rather than every two to three.
If you are not sure what your driveway is made of, here is the quick test: asphalt is black or dark gray and has a slightly rough, flexible texture. Concrete is light gray, smooth, and hard. Most residential driveways poured before 1990 are concrete; most installed from 1990 onward in suburban developments are asphalt. When in doubt, check your home inspection report.
Timing and weather requirements
The two things that ruin a seal job are moisture and cold. The driveway must be completely dry before you start, and it needs to stay dry for at least 24 hours after you finish. Check the forecast before you open a bucket.
Temperature matters too. Most sealcoat products require air temperatures above 50°F to cure properly. Below that threshold, the coating stays tacky, does not bond well, and wears off within months. The ideal window is a dry stretch in late spring or early fall when daytime highs are between 60°F and 85°F.
Avoid sealing in peak afternoon sun on hot days. When the surface temperature exceeds 130°F, the sealer flash-dries before it can level out, leaving streaks and an uneven finish. If you must work in summer, start in the early morning.
Common mistakes
Skipping the cleaning step. Sealer applied over dirt, oil, or loose debris will peel within months. The prep takes longer than the actual sealing. Do it right.
Applying one thick coat instead of two thin ones. A single heavy coat traps solvents underneath, stays soft, tracks footprints, and cracks sooner. Two thin coats cure faster and last longer.
Sealing a brand-new driveway. Fresh asphalt needs 6 to 12 months to cure and off-gas before you seal it. Sealing too early traps oils in the surface and the sealcoat will not adhere.
Ignoring cracks before sealing. Sealcoat is not crack repair. It is a surface coating. Cracks wider than a quarter inch need to be filled with crack filler first, or they will telegraph right through the new sealcoat and keep growing.
Not blocking traffic long enough. The surface feels dry in a few hours but is not fully cured for 24 to 48. Driving on it too early leaves permanent tire impressions and compromises the seal.
Frequently asked questions
- How often should I seal my driveway?
- Every two to three years for asphalt driveways. If the surface looks faded gray instead of black, or water soaks in instead of beading up, it is time to reseal. Driveways in harsh climates with heavy freeze-thaw cycles may need sealing closer to every two years.
- Can you seal a concrete driveway?
- Yes, but you need a different product. Standard asphalt sealcoat does not work on concrete. Use a concrete-specific sealer, either acrylic or penetrating silane/siloxane. Concrete driveways are sealed less often, typically every three to five years.
- What is the best weather for sealing a driveway?
- Dry conditions with temperatures above 50°F and no rain in the forecast for at least 24 hours. Late spring and early fall are the best windows in most of the U.S. Do not seal in direct midday sun on very hot days because the sealer dries too fast and does not bond well.
- How long before you can drive on a sealed driveway?
- At least 24 hours, and 48 hours is better. The surface may feel dry to the touch in a few hours, but the sealer has not fully cured. Driving on it too soon leaves permanent tire marks and compresses the coating unevenly.
Products you'll need
This section contains affiliate links. We may earn a commission at no cost to you.
Gardner Driveway Sealer (5 gal)
Asphalt driveway sealcoat — per bucket
Driveway Squeegee Applicator
Heavy-duty squeegee for spreading sealer
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