How to Winterize a Chainsaw

2 min readeasy

To winterize a chainsaw, add fuel stabilizer and run the engine for 5 minutes to circulate it, drain the bar oil, clean the air filter, remove the chain and bar and apply a light oil coat for storage, clean sawdust and sap from the body, and store in a dry location with the bar cover on.

Time
15 min
Frequency
every fall (after last use)
Difficulty
easy
Cost
$10

What you'll need

The steps

  1. 1

    Add fuel stabilizer and run for 5 minutes

    Pour fuel stabilizer into the gas tank at the recommended dosage. Start the chainsaw and let it run for 5 minutes. This pulls treated fuel through the carburetor and fuel lines, protecting the entire fuel system from varnish buildup over winter. Shut off the engine and let it cool.

  2. 2

    Drain the bar oil

    Remove the bar oil cap and turn the saw upside down over a container to drain the remaining bar oil. Bar oil left in the reservoir over winter can thicken, clog the oil port, and leak slowly onto your storage shelf. Save the drained oil to reuse in the spring if it is still clean.

  3. 3

    Clean the air filter

    Remove the air filter cover and take out the filter. Tap it against a hard surface to knock loose debris free. Wash foam or mesh filters with warm soapy water and let them dry completely before reinstalling. Replace paper filters if they are clogged. A clean filter is ready for spring without the delay of tracking down a replacement.

  4. 4

    Remove the chain and bar and oil lightly for storage

    Loosen the bar nuts and remove the side cover. Slide the bar and chain off the saw. Wipe the chain clean with a rag, then apply a thin coat of light machine oil or spray lubricant to prevent rust. Coil the chain and store it in a dry container or hang it on a hook. Oil the bar rails lightly as well.

  5. 5

    Clean the body of sawdust and sap

    Use a rag or stiff brush to clean sawdust, sap, and debris from the saw body, sprocket area, and cooling fins. Packed sawdust holds moisture against the metal and causes corrosion. Sap hardens into a varnish that is much harder to remove later. A clean saw is easier to inspect and maintain in the spring.

  6. 6

    Store in a dry location with the bar cover on

    Reassemble the bar and chain or store them separately. Slide the bar cover (scabbard) over the bar to protect the chain teeth and your hands. Store the saw in a dry shed, garage, or basement. Avoid damp floors — set the saw on a shelf or hang it from a hook. Moisture is the enemy during storage.

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Fuel is the main concern

Old gasoline is the number one cause of small engine problems after winter storage. Ethanol-blended fuel absorbs moisture from the air and begins breaking down in as little as 30 days. Over a 4 to 6 month off-season, untreated fuel turns into a sticky varnish that coats the inside of the carburetor. The result is a saw that will not start, idles erratically, or bogs down under load.

Fuel stabilizer prevents this breakdown. Add it to the tank and run the engine long enough for treated fuel to reach every part of the fuel system — tank, fuel lines, and carburetor. Five minutes of idle time is sufficient. This single step prevents the most common and expensive off-season failure.

Chain storage and rust prevention

A bare steel chain will rust in storage. Moisture in the air is enough — it does not need to be submerged or rained on. Light surface rust dulls the cutting teeth and increases friction against the bar. Heavy rust pits the drive links and weakens them, which can cause the chain to break under load.

After removing the chain, wipe it down with a clean rag to remove sawdust, sap, and moisture. Apply a thin coat of light machine oil (3-in-1 oil, WD-40, or spray lubricant) to every link. You do not need to soak it — a light film is enough to displace moisture and create a barrier. Store the chain in a sealed container or zip-lock bag to keep dust and moisture out.

Why you remove the bar

The junction between the bar and the saw body is a trap for sawdust and moisture. When the bar is mounted, the mounting studs, bar groove entrance, and sprocket area are enclosed. Moisture that collects there during the last use stays trapped all winter, slowly corroding the bar rails, sprocket, and mounting hardware.

Removing the bar takes 2 minutes with the scrench that came with the saw. Once off, clean both the bar and the saw's mounting area with a rag or brush. Oil the bar rails and mounting studs lightly. This prevents the bar from rusting to the mounting studs, which is a common and frustrating problem on saws stored assembled in damp garages.

Spring startup checklist

When spring arrives and you need the saw again, do not just pour in gas and pull the cord. Take 5 minutes to verify that winter storage did not create any issues.

Check the fuel by sniffing it. Fresh gas smells sharp and clean. Old or degraded fuel has a stale, varnish-like smell. If the fuel smells off, drain it and start fresh. Inspect the chain for rust and sharpen if needed. Reinstall the bar and set chain tension. Fill the bar oil reservoir. Check the air filter. Test the chain brake. Then start the saw, let it idle for a minute, and make a few test cuts in scrap wood before starting real work.

Frequently asked questions

Should I drain the fuel or add stabilizer?
Add stabilizer. Draining the tank leaves residual fuel in the carburetor and fuel lines that will varnish over winter. Stabilized fuel protects the entire fuel system. If the fuel in the tank is already old or degraded, drain it, refill with fresh fuel and stabilizer, and run the engine for 5 minutes.
Why remove the bar for winter storage?
Moisture trapped between the bar and the saw body causes corrosion on the bar rails and the mounting studs. Removing the bar lets both surfaces dry and allows you to oil them for protection. It also gives you a chance to clean sawdust and debris from the sprocket area, which is hard to reach with the bar mounted.
Can I leave the chain on the bar during storage?
You can, but storing them separately gives better results. A chain sitting on the bar can trap moisture in the bar groove and cause localized rust on both parts. If you do leave the chain on, loosen the tension, oil the chain generously, and cover the whole assembly with the bar scabbard.
What should I check when I pull the chainsaw out in spring?
Check fuel condition (should smell like gas, not varnish), chain sharpness, chain tension, bar oil level, air filter cleanliness, spark plug condition, and chain brake function. Run the saw for a minute at idle before cutting. If it starts hard or runs rough, the carburetor may need cleaning despite the stabilizer.

Products you'll need

This section contains affiliate links. We may earn a commission at no cost to you.

STA-BIL Fuel Stabilizer (32oz)

Add to fuel before winter storage

$10–$14

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